Basilica Cistern

Water for Emperors

A stone’s throw from Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns beneath Istanbul. This astounding underground structure takes its name from the site of an ancient basilica under which it was built: Emperor Constantine first ordered its construction in the 5th century as a filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople. It was later rebuilt and expanded by Justinian, and until recently still provided water to Topkapi Palace.

Despite its rather unglamorous function, the cistern is a remarkable and impressive sight. The enormous vaulted chamber is the size of a football pitch, capable of holding 80,000m³ of water, and supported by 336 marble and granite columns.

Temples recycled

Many of these 9-metre columns were salvaged (or ‘spoliated’) from ruined Roman temples: Ionic and Corinthian capitals are common, and two favourites feature the carved face of Medusa. They are upside-down and sideways respectively - rumour has it these orientations were a deliberate ploy to neutralise the petrifying power of Medusa’s gaze, although practical concerns about the columns’ height are more likely.

The cistern’s magical atmosphere even earned it a spot in the 1963 Bond flick From Russia with Love, with 007 paddling through its columns to foil a Soviet plot. Restoration in 1985 saw 50,000 tons of mud removed from the chamber, and boardwalks were installed in place of boats for touring purposes: complemented by subtle lighting, it is today an excellent tourist attraction. This unique destination also makes a refreshing retreat from the Turkish heat on a tour of the nearby mosques, palaces and museums.