Every day at noon, the Escolania de Montserrat boys' choir sing “el Virolai”, a hymn venerating the Virgin of Montserrat.
Perching precariously on the slopes of Montserrat (“Jagged Mountain” in Catalan), and commanding a breathtaking view of the landscape below, is the stunning Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey. It isn’t easy to get there; most visitors leave Barcelona in the morning by car or train, and then take the funicular railway or spectacular cable car up the mountain. Here you will find yourself close to the top of Montserrat, which towers fully 1236m over the valley floor, offering an unparalleled vista of the lovely Catalan lowlands.
A Local Favourite
Inside, you can find one of the rare “Black Madonnas of Europe”. The Virgin Mary is the Patron Saint of Catalonia, and this instantiation of her is fondly known as “la Moreneta”, meaning “The little dark one”.The statue is 95cm tall, and is carved of wood in an ornate Byzantine style, and its creation and history are the subject of numerous legends. Some believe that it was carved in Jerusalem during the early days of the Christian church. Others claim that it was moved here to protect it from the marauding Saracens, and that the Benedictine monks later refused to move it, instead choosing to build their monastery around their hallowed icon.
Fade to Black
Interestingly, it is thought that the Madonna has not always been her current colour. Renovation work carried out in 2001 led experts to believe that her skin was once a lighter shade, but that prolonged exposure to candle smoke (or a varnish-related chemical reaction) slowly turned her into the Black Madonna we can see today.
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